Everest Base Camp Trek September 2015

In September 2015 I fulfilled a lifelong dream. As a child I was always fascinated by Mt Everest. I would read books on the climbers and the mountains and at one time had a picture on my wall of the World’s tallest mountain. As a child with vertigo and a great fear of heights I knew climbing would not be in my cards. However I did keep in my aspirations the thought of one day going to Base Camp. Many years passed, two children, five grandchildren later; I felt it was time. For my 65th birthday I invited a friend to accompany me and share the experience.

Day One - Kathmandu

On September 08th my friend Bob Hill and I departed St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada via Heathrow, Zurich, and Deli to arriving in Kathmandu, Nepal. on the 09th. We were met by our trekking company Himalayan Wonders and were driven through the confusing streets of the city to our hotel.

Hotel Pilgim

This city was so congested and I have never seen the likes before. There seemed to be no rules for the various forms of vehicular traffic including cars, buses, trucks, bikes, scooters, and pedestrians all competing for the same real estate on the roads. Best described as "organized confusion" it was a hair rising ride to the hotel in Thamel District of Kathmandu. We finally arrived at the Hotel Pilgrim; not exactly 5 star but adequate and our home for the next few days.

Ed Evelly and Bob Hill

That night we went back out into the madness to a restaurant called the "Black Olive". To our surprise there was a young blues player who could make the guitar sound like a sitar. Also he could play awesome American blues music. 

Great Blues Music



It was great music and great food and our first introduction to Dhal Bhatt and the cuisine of Nepal. In the mountains we were to tier of it in time and resort to potatoes in their many forms with or without eggs.

Day Two - Kathmandu

Vendors Selling Wares

The next day we were met and walked through the streets of  Katmandu by the trekking company manager for a briefing on the up and coming trek. We picked up new sleeping bags and other gear we needed for the trek. The town has stores selling knockoff high end climbing and trekking gear for ridiculously low prices. You could get a branded down jacket for $30.00 USD. We discovered it was as cheap to buy the additional gear we needed rather than rent it. In the afternoon Bob and I went down to the World Heritage Durbar Square. Other than some rubble around the streets of the hotel this was our first real reality of the devastating effects of the two earthquakes in April and May. One earthquake was 8.3 and the other 8.1 on the Richter scale.

Before describing Durbar Square I should make some comment on the people of Nepal. They are without uncertainty the friendliest people I have met anywhere in the World. They are thankful for our coming but also genuinely friendly, warm and open. With devastation around them they still manage to smile and their eyes tell all as to how pleased they are that we have come. The economy is terrible and the shop keepers tell us about only one or two sales a day.

Bargaining is expected but the knockoff goods are already cheap. It is fun to bargain but you can tell the limits when you make an offer that makes them appear as if you shot their puppy. You can also see the expression of happiness when there is a price point they and you are happy with. These are spiritual people, honest in their work and there are very few hustlers about. They simply want to make a living and feed their families. The local greeting is hands held in prayer with a slight bow with the single word, "Namaste".

Namaste is much more than hello, but also a sincere, “have a good and peaceful day”. We were to use this greeting for everyone from the people on the street, hotel workers and the amazing porters carrying goods up the mountain.

Durbar Square is a World Heritage site. It is filled with the hustle and bustle of the street vendors, the Old Palace and many temples and holy places. Today it is mainly rubble since the terrible destruction of the earthquakes.

Many temples were completely destroyed while others are propped up with huge pieces of wood to hold them together. It is very sad to see and also sad for these wonderful spiritual people. We toured many of the sites but there were not many you could risk going inside. Walking from Thamel to Durbar Square it became evident why so much destruction took place in this historic city.

The buildings along the streets are ancient, made of brick and without any earthquake protection. They simply collapsed upon one another. People remain living and working among the ruble. It is so, so sad to see. The streets are lively, teeming with people, rickshaws and vendors peddling their goods. Families come to the fountain to fill their water containers or to wash from the ancient springs.

That day we also found a great lunch at a restaurant called the Roadhouse serving great thin crust pizza along with "Everest" brand beer that we came to quite like. That evening it was early to bed for an early rise for the flight to Lukla and the beginning of the trek.

Day Three - Flight to Lukla and Trek to Phakding

Now if you don't know; Lukla is known as the most dangerous airport in the World. Its high elevation, wind shear from the mountains and short runway make it that way.

Check in at Kathmandu

Flights are dependent on the weather in open to the cockpit planes capable of carrying about 20 passengers but only allowed 12 due to the weight. As you approach the runway all you see is mountains around you and in front of you.

View of the cockpit

You can see no way that a plane can land. Before you know it abruptly touches down and quickly brakes before pulling into what can be described as less than a terminal. Seriously the runway looks not much longer than my driveway. People scramble to unload as the flight immediately leaves to go back to Kathmandu for another few passengers.

Where are we to land?

The weather, winds and mountains are that tenuous that they have to keep it moving. When we returned from our trek no further fights went into Lukla for three days. The pilots actually call Lukla for landing conditions before they leave Kathmandu and it is only a 35 minute flight. If you dare, go search the YouTube video "Most Dangerous Airports" and you will find it listed as number one. It was scary but not as bad as we had thought. This was my first emotional experience of the trip. Here I was from a childhood dream at the Tenzing Hilary Airport about to depart on a journey traveled by Himalayan Explorers for over a century.

Landing at Lukla

This was the starting point for trekkers and climbers alike. I was humbled. Here we were met by our guide Ishwor and our porter Pimba. Both were strangers but soon to become friends and soul mates in this amazing journey. Once bags and trekking gear were collected we went to our first tea house in Lukla for breakfast before setting off for Phakding.  This was to be our first overnight stop.

Unloading at Lukla 

Trek to Phakding

The trail to Phakding was quite pretty, meandering through pine and rhododendron forests and passing many Buddhist Holy Sites including beautifully carved ancient tablets (Mani Stones), carved rocks and prayer wheels.

Mani stones can be seen in Nepal and Tibet, where Buddhism is widely practiced. Large examples of Mani stones resembling tablets carved out of the sides of rock formations and are in locations throughout the Nepali areas of the Himalayas, such as Namche Bazar. Mani stone walls are most numerous in the high country of the Khumbu. 

The mantra of Avalokiteshvara is also a common design on prayer wheels and prayer flags in Nepal. We kept the prayer wheels on our right and spun them three times to the sounds of the bells as is the tradition. This area was highly religious as was evident by the Buddhist icons along the way. 

Starting at Lukla at 9,184 feet we were actually to descend to Phakding at 8,698 feet. Phakding was our first introduction to tea house accommodation. 

Tea House in Phakding

The rooms were small with two foam beds, a small table between and a toilet and sink shared with other guests. To this point it was at least shared flush toilets.

Meager but adequate accommodation

We drank only bottled water including brushing our teeth and continued to do so for the entire trip. It was readily available and cheap so there was no need to purify water.

In the evening we went for a short walk and saw that this was more a farming village and far less commercial than Lukla. Sitting outside a bar we met Fee (Fiona) and Gary who were later to become simply known to us as "the Aussi Couple". We met and/or stayed with them along the way and shared our Base Camp experience with then.

Phakding was to be our last encounter with meat until we finally reached back to Lukla 12 days hence. 

We were offered goat for the evening meal. We inquired about the freshness and were told the butchering was in progress. I guess that meant it was fresh as it ever was going to be? We decided on the goat curry with rice. It was a little tough but otherwise good with excellent curry flavor. It would not be our last curry meal as we familiarized ourselves with the native dish of "Dhal Bhatt". Bob ate more than I did as I soon switched to fried potatoes and fried eggs as my main staple.

Phakding Traffic

Our First Suspension Bridge

We were Room # 1

Porters and Sherpa's

This section of the trail introduced us to the porters. Pimba our porter ceased to amaze us as he carried both our bags weighing about 50 lbs total. 

Pimba

He couldn't have been more than 100 lbs himself but skipped easily along the stones, steps and descents at a pace we certainly could not emulate.

We teased him that he had a girlfriend in every village and that he was in a hurry to get there before us. The porters’ are employed by the trekking companies and is by far a better job than the porters who carry goods up the mountain to supply the various villages. 

Pimba could expect better wages and a good tip from us in the end. Other porters do not have it so good. We saw porters carrying as many as 4 two four cases of beer along with various other materials and goods. Many we saw carrying 12 sheets of 1/4 inch plywood and one guy with 4 sheets of 3/4 plywood. There were others with sheet metal for roofing. These porters carry their loads up steps that can descend hundreds of feet along uneven paths that we could barely walk up. They do it with contraptions supported by a band around their head and a short stumpy wooden walking stick that they use to support the load when they need to rest. They look for walls or rocks also to rest the loads.

We saw one guy in Tengboche actually carrying what was to be a telephone pole. All are bent over double and life expectancy may be short. With that said they will greet you or return a greeting of "Namaste" as you pass them.

The wages are poor at best and go up as elevation increases. From Lukla to Namche the rate is 25 rupees per kilo. That is equivalent to 25 cents per kilo, making a two day trek with about 100-200 lbs on your back worth approximately between $12.50 and $25.00. Above Namche that could double but now it is done in thin air that we could barely breathe in. The wages would probably work out to little more than $1.00 per hour for grueling work. 

This is the way of life and they depend on the trekking and climbing tourists to come and stay at the tea houses so they can get the jobs to feed their families. You can see and feel the appreciation that we had come. The last two seasons have been devastating to their economy. 

Last year 19 Sherpa's were killed in a rock slide beyond Base Camp in the Khumbu Ice fall and cancelled the climbing season. This year 18 people were killed at Base Camp when an avalanche caused by the earthquake swept over the camp. This year only one climbing permit has been issued. This single permit was issued to a Japanese celebrity who has already attempted several summits of Everest and lost fingers and toes. Some feel he is putting many Sherpa's at risk when many of the ladders and ropes have not been replaced since the recent disasters on the mountain.

When is a Sherpa not a Sherpa? This became an interesting question that deserved an answer. The answer really is that Sherpa is an ethnic group and not simply porters. Belonging to the ethnic group means that you use Sherpa at the end of your name. As an example Sir Edmund Hillary's sherpa was named Tenzing Norgay and thus used the full name of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa because he was a member of the ethnic group. Now to complicate matters a porter who carries a load for an official mountain guide is called a sherpa. You see he is a sherpa but not a "Sherpa"!

Quickly we were to understand that we had with us a special individual in our mountain guide Ishwor.

He was from the town of Gorkha which was the epicenter of the first earthquake. His home was destroyed and his family is subsiding among the rubble.  He has a business degree in finance and is saving to study abroad to finish his Masters. For now Ishwor continues to raise money to help rebuild his home and try and put away money for study. All along the mountain cell coverage is fairly good and while walking Ishwor was corresponding with his university to try and get documentation to them to register for courses.

We also quickly noted Ishwor knew more than he was telling us. Weather in the mountain region is very unpredictable but a pattern seemed to be settling in. We would wake to sunshine, get an early breakfast and start to trek by about 7:30 or 8:00. By midday you could see clouds starting to infiltrate the valleys.

By 1:00 or 2:00 it would get misty and Ishwor would try to have us at our nightly destination. By that time it was cooling considerably and it was nice to get a hot tea or lemon. Ishwor not only knew the likelihood of weather but knew our trekking pace to get us to the next destination.

Day Four Phakding to Namche Bazar

Our next day we were to gear up for the trek to Namche Bazar, the largest Sherpa village in Nepal. The trail takes us along the Dudhkoshi River over our first suspension bridge and the through a beautiful pine forest.

Soon we were to enter the checkpoint for the entry to Sagarmatha National Park.

Here Ishwor checks us in and gets our permits to enter the region. We continue onto Jorsale where we stop for lunch. All stops begin with a hot drink, usually tea or hot lemon. Lunches consist of vegetable soups or fried egg sandwiches. We had decided not to eat meat after leaving Phakding due to the lack of cold storage. The trail is becoming more challenging as we climb great numbers of steps with high rises only to descend once again down big steps and rocks to the river bed.

The Dudhkoshi is known locally as the milk river due to its milk white color. Although the rivers are clear and fast the water is not drinkable. The many yaks along the route cause it to be polluted. The locals can tolerate it but foreigners would likely get "Nepali Belly". This is something you want to avoid at all cost so you either buy bottled water or treat the water with chlorine purifying tablets. We keep in mind that the tablets work more slowly as the temperature goes down.

Along this route we encounter the first of many yak trains. As they approach you squeeze into the banks and shush them away so their sharp horns don't come near you.
Most are cow yaks that are a cross between a yak and a cow and therefore are less aggressive. We will see many real yaks as we ascend and will learn to treat them with respect. It is noted that the yaks appear to be carrying far less loads then the human porters. Is that because they are held in much greater esteem and are less expendable?  We weren't really sure if this was the case or not. We did note that there appeared to be a general rule when it came to yaks. It seems they deposit their waste always on the very rock or step that you require to navigate. It never failed!

Flying into Lukla I had to overcome my first fear. I have flown on small planes before including fishing trips inland in Newfoundland and Labrador. However that did not prepare me for the mountain flying or landing in the World’s most dangerous airport. That over with I now had to face my second fear, the suspension bridges.

The first one over with Bob and Ishwor’s help I knew there were four more to go today and in particular the Hillary Bridge. It is a tough climb up to the bridge that suspends across a great gorge with another bridge many feet below you to another village. I had heard that walking over the Hillary Bridge was as if one was suspended in air. With knees shaking I followed Bob with Ishwor closely behind me. It was not quite like floating on air and my fears were arrested. I did it with no ill effects and really quite enjoyed it, stopping once or twice to admire the view up and down the gorge and to the other bridge many feet below me. Three more to go!

Beautiful Waterfalls

As we continue onto Namche we encounter numerous waterfalls tumbling down from great heights. Many of the mountain flowers are still in bloom with some recognizable but others of varieties unknown to us. Donkey and Yak trains seem to becoming more frequent and as we approach Namche we see the occasional monk.

We have been spinning the prayer wheels and touching the prayer poles the entire way for continued luck. The final approach to Namche is a steep climb up many steps and we note at higher elevation the climbs are becoming increasingly more difficult. 

Children at play entering Namche

We pass through many small villages and watch the children make play out of the simplest things. Not unlike children anywhere they make play easily but you can see the opportunities for a different life is non-existent here in these isolated mountain villages.  Women sit outside separating grains, attending to what would be little more than kitchen gardens to us but survival for them in the winter months when no trekkers or climbers are about.

Aaron and Isaac 

Along the way to Namche we were passed by two young guys, one from New Zealand now living in Kathmandu.  His wife had taken a three year teaching appointment in Nepal and he was seeking a work permit. His friend from the UK had joined him for the Everest Trek. Isaac and Aaron ended up being great fun and we spent a lot of time with them laughing and telling stories.

Namche Bazar

We arrived in Namche mid afternoon very tired after a tough day of climbing up and down out of valleys.
To us it became known as "Nepali Flat". We had our usual hot drink and then it was off to our room for some much needed rest. We were pleasantly surprised to see we had a toilet and sink separate in the room.

There were hot showers, not in the room, that you could pay for. They consisted of a concrete floor, tin room shack outside; but the water was hot. I decided to take a shower before settling down for a nap. In the mountains it doesn't take long to cool down and before long we were in sleeping bags in the room.

Moonlight Lodge Restaurant

The tea house was known as the Moonlight Lodge and Restaurant.  It would be by far the nicest we were to stay in. This day we had gained considerable altitude and could start to feel that the air was getting thinner. The height now was 11,283 feet. We were to remain here for the night and all the next day to acclimatize. Shortly after arriving the Aussi Couple showed up with their guide and we had a great evening conversation. The meal that night consisted of vegetarian Dhal Bhatt as we were now totally off meat for the rest of the journey.

That evening before settling down for the night we were treated to a spectacular sunset over Ama Dablam.  The mountains turn yellow in the sun and provide a simply spectacular site.

Pimba still manages to smile after a hard day

Shopping in Namche

Namche has a sherpa museum for an overview of Sherpa culture and history of mountaineering. It is a shopping hub with all manner of trekking and mountaineering gear. Bob and I went shopping; me for knee braces and he for internet as nothing was working at the tea house including the power that was intermittent in Namche throughout our entire visit. I was successful, Bob was not. My worn out running knees were surprisingly good but I feared the downhill on the decent would do them and me in. Namche's power supply is mainly underground and many of the lines were cut during the quakes. Now flimsy wires are strung out through the streets to try and maintain some semblance of normal. It obviously wasn't working during our time there. It was better on the decent.

Rebuilding a Tea House 

It was now noticeable on the way up the effects the earthquakes were having on the economy. Coming this far we saw many of the destroyed homes and tea houses. Tea houses that had concrete around them feared better than those that were constructed of simply stacked stone. The effects were the same as in Kathmandu where the oldest structures had the worst damage. Many of the homeless families were living in improvised shelters or tents. The big difference was in the number of trekkers. Most tea houses were empty and at ours only the Aussi Couple, an American who was on his way down and us. Isaac and Aaron were staying elsewhere. Other than porters carrying rebuilding supplies the trails were empty. This in particular is having a major effect on the recovery.

Day Five Rest and Acclimatization

The next day being a rest and acclimatization day we took a two hour hike up to the Everest View Hotel.

Namche in a distance

We awoke to glorious sunshine and a view of the mountains around us, including Kwanghe, Thamserku, Ama Dablam and a partial view of Lhotse. Along the way were spectacular views back to Namche far below us. This was meant to be our first view of Everest but it was obscured by cloud. We hoped at least we would get a glimpse of Everest from the Everest View Hotel. It was far from a rest as we climbed several hundred meters in order to acclimatize. It is known as, “climb high, sleep low”. We discovered it worked as we had no altitude issues to this point.

Ed and Bob at Everest View Hotel

The Everest View Hotel was built by the Japanese and is quite opulent compared to anything else this high in the mountains. The Japanese fly in from Kathmandu by helicopter to stay and partake of the beautiful views. We were to be disappointed as Everest was still to be obscured by cloud. Views of Everest are not easy to spot as it is often obscured due to the fact that it is the highest and sits behind Lhotse and Nuptse. We would have to wait another day. We did enjoy a juice stop on the patio before descending back to Namche.

Khumjung 

As we descended from the Everest View Hotel, in a circle route, we could see the mists coming up the valley. The temperature dropped considerably but the mists added to the natural beauty. In the distance we could see a village with beautifully arranged stone walls.  This was the village of Khumjung. 

Entrance to Hillary School 

Children at classes outside

The story of Khumjung and the Himalayan Trust work all began in the early 1960s when, during one of his journeys, Sir Edmund asked a Sherpa “If there was anything I could do for the Sherpa people, what do you think that would be?” The Sherpa immediately replied, “Burra Sahib (big Sahib), our children have eyes but they are blind and cannot see. Therefore, we would want you to open their eyes by building a school in our village of Khumjung”.This touched the heart of Edmund Hillary and he immediately began to raise funds and build the first school in Khumjung. Today the school is still active and we saw children outside with their teacher during lessons.

A statue to Sir Edmund can be seen in the school yard. The Khumjung School was built in 1961 as the first major project of the Himalayan Trust. It started off as a two classroom school but now caters for pre-school, primary and secondary sections with over 350 students.

We were particularly pleased to see that this project was partially funded by the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation Canada.  

The walk back to Namche was spectacular with beautiful paths along the ridges with mountain views. We were now getting near the end of the tree line in places as we got up to higher elevations.

When we got back to Namche we met two young Aussie girls, both nurses who are a day behind us. They were ill prepared with sleeping bags and we helped them out by lending them our silk liners to get through the cold and damp night. We are to see them again later in the journey and they are to surprise us all on the descent.

Day 6 Namche Bazar to Tengboche 

Breakfast in Namche fuels us for another day. Today it is porridge and apples. We saw a lot of apples on the way up and noted the dark brown skin of the mountain variety. They were quite tasty as was the porridge. We take a short drop again to the riverside and cross a low bridge and then walk through a pine forest pass.

Before long we are climbing again and run into another yak train before crossing a suspension bridge. This time they are real yaks and not cow yaks. They are a little more formidable and we keep our distance as best we can.

From here it is a continual grade and some serious uphill to reach our night's destination of Tengboche. The bright sunshine of the morning had turned to mist and fog by the time we reach Tengboche. 

Tengboche is known as one of the most beautiful places in the Everest Region but we wouldn't say that by what greeted us. Heavy fog and mist obscured most of the views. The Tengboche monastery is still the most imposing structure in the village. 

The tea house didn't make us much happier as we were to discover. It was damp and all our clothing including that in dry bags got damp throughout the night.

We were concerned that things would get worse as we progressed up the mountains. There were very few people about. We met two guys from Israel who had come by chopper from Kathmandu the day before and were attempting a summit nearby the following day. It was a rather ambitious adventure with little acclimatization. 

We could see by the mattresses in the dining area that during a normal season this tea house was busy. We were told that when crowded that people sleep on the floor side by side. Luckily we were not to experience this. 






The beautiful monastery in Tengboche was barely to be seen and no monks were about. There were no mountains to be seen. We were now at 12,684 feet, the highest I had ever been. When trekking in Argentina Claudine and I topped 12,000 feet and there I had mild altitude sickness. To this point at Everest I am feeling no ill effects other than appetite loss more from the food monotony then from altitude.

We ate our meal, Bob Dhal Bhatt and I turned to the fried potatoes with a fried egg on top. I was trusting that they were fresh eggs at least. This meal was to become my staple for the rest of the journey. Bob eventually switched as well. As we got higher and more into the native villages we saw that potatoes were the staple crop. It was a mountain variety and very sweet. For the remainder of the trek I ate potatoes in various forms, chips, hash browns, fried and mashed. For variety I would add a fried egg. Breakfast was a fried egg, boiled egg or the odd omelet or better described as a solid scrambled.  Lunch became vegetarian soup that consisted mainly of a broth with chopped chives and onion. I was to lose my appetite at the highest altitudes and struggle to get even this down.

We woke up in Tengboche to a glorious sunrise. There in all its glory with whist of cloud was Everest. This is what we came for. Aba Dablam loomed over us to the right and was a formidable site. Everest was behind Lhotse and not near as imposing as she hides behind her lower sisters. She looks the easiest to climb but yet she eluded mountaineers for decades until Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay finally conquered her. But this view was not our goal. It was much loftier to Base Camp. 

While we ate breakfast the bells of the Tengboche Monastery rang as if they were calling out to us.

We had read the rules of the monastery the night before. After finishing breakfast we went over to the monastery to enter among the monks and listen to the chanting and prayer to in some way nourish our own souls and bring us luck. This quiet time of meditation was to help us reflect on what lay ahead. It would be a long day to Dingboche and another day of acclimatization.

Day 7 - Tengboche to Dingboche 

The day started with a walk through a rhododendron forest and then down once again to the raging Imja Khol River. Here we crossed on a precarious footbridge and hoped our footing would hold. The climb over the huge boulders was strenuous at best and I wasn't looking forward to it on the way down. 

Villagers digging potatoes 

We passed through the Sherpa village of Pangboche, the largest Sherpa village in the region. Here the people lived much simpler lives eking out an existence as yak breeders and keepers with the women tending to the potatoes, apple orchards, and washing. The stone paddock enclosures added an ambiance to the simple lifestyle. In this area there was much more native dress but we had seen some on the way up to this point. 

The trek was more difficult by midday as the landscape gave way to dry, dessert like mountains as we headed towards Dingboche. 

Isaac with his dog friends 

Isaac and Aaron had passed us earlier with the wild dogs in tow and they were there to greet us at our tea house.  The friendly dogs would leave the villages and follow us for miles as sometimes would the kids. 

We could see Dingboche in the distance and it was to be our home for the next two nights. It was still bright sunshine when we arrived and we sat out admiring the snow capped mountains while drinking our hot beverages. We put much of our clothing out to dry in the sunshine in hopes of removing the dampness encountered in Tengboche. 

Ama Dablam stood out as usual, imposing in her presence. We were now at 14,435 feet.

Day 8 - Rest Day at Dingboche 

After a night’s sleep it was to be a rest day, but Ishwor thought it best we climb for a couple of hours and come back down to rest. The old, "go high, sleep low", to acclimatize. It was only three hours but a very tough three hours.

We met Aaron and Isaac near the top. Isaac got a splitting headache on a particularly steep section and we could see that Aaron was starting to suffer a bit from altitude. He felt a little sick, headache and no appetite.  It wasn't boding well for him at this point. He went straight to bed for several hours but didn't eat. He did manage to drink to stay hydrated. Bob and I laid down for what had become our customary afternoon nap. Only to get up, eat and be in bed asleep by 7:00. Yes, we were that tired but unfortunately up again at sunrise at 5:15-5:30 am.

Dingboche from the top

Near the top of the walk we observed Gary and Fee (The Aussie Couple) on their way up. They were in the tea house just above us. I believe we all found it a strenuous day. Even though we woke early we believe it  helped Ishwor as we were on the go by 7:30 am and ahead of the customary weather pattern of fine in the morning and cloud and damp moving in nightly with heavy rain. We ascertained that the steep climb that day was a bit of a test for us by Ishwor. It was tough but very steep accent and descent. My knees held up but we were tired.

Ama Dablam in the background 

Fee and Gary 

Day Nine - Dingboche to Lobuche

The next day was the walk from Dingboche to Lobuche. This would bring us to 16,076 feet elevation. This section of the trek was more gradual but far more challenging at the high elevation. Lobuche (or Lobuje) is a small settlement near Mount Everest in the Khumbu region of Nepal. It is one of the last overnight stops with lodging on the "trail to base camp”. This is a hike that climbers make on their way to Everest Base Camp (South) when attempting an ascent of Everest via the standard southeast route. It is also a popular stop for us trekkers. 

From here the next day we go onto Gorak Shep and complete the trail onto EBC (Everest Base Camp). We will overnight on the way back from Base Camp at Gorak Shep and rise early for the Everest sunrise view half way up Kala Patthar. The structure of Everest is such that its actual summit is not visible from Base Camp. We are now prepared to snuggle up for a cold night as we are about 3 miles above sea level. Hello down there St. John's! We are nearing the top of the World.

Lobuche lies near the foot of the Khumbu Glacier and now we could only walk a few hundred meters and gasp for breath while trying to bring our heart rates under control.

The Prayer Flags Near the Sherpa Memorials

Sherpa Memorials 

We are now far past the tree line and climb to the top of a high hill where here we find the memorial stupas to Sherpa’s, climbers and trekkers who lost their lives to Everest over the years. It is beautiful, sobering and one cannot help but to feel the spiritual emotion of this place. This was to become a special spot for Bob and his childhood climbing friend on the return journey.

The view of the valley was phenomenal with the looming mountains all around us. We walk over the craggy mountain terrain to Lobuche with amazing views of Mt. Lobuche, Mt. Pumari and now Nuptse. This is our first full view of Nuptse. The views at Lobuche are spectacular as we lay near the foot of the Khumbu Glacier and  can see clearly the Kumbu Icefall, the most dangerous climb in the ascent to Everest. Here you will find ice towers as tall as New York skyscrapers and the climbers have to navigate over them using aluminium ladders, crampons and ropes. Once over the ice fall the climb is difficult but more about fighting the altitude. Tonight we need lots of rest because tomorrow is the big day with the walk to Gorak Shep and the push to Base Camp.

Bob and Isaac soak up the sun in Lobuche

It was a beautiful sunny day when we arrived at Lobuche. The temperature was still warm and we were able to sit out and enjoy the last of the day before taking hot lemon and a much needed rest. 

Aaron takes in the last rays sun before a much needed rest. 

Day 10 - To Gorak Shep and EBC (The Big Day Has Arrived)

This is to be the big day. 

Walk to Gorak Shep

We start with a relatively easy walk from Lobuche to Gorak Shep. Easy really is a relative term when you are trying to walk at 17,000 feet. Aaron and Isaac left early and we will eventually run into them at Base Camp. We are to stop in Gorak Shep for lunch before proceeding onto Base Camp. We haven't seen the Aussi Couple but we know they are on the trail. Bob is also feeling some effects for the first time with some dizziness that causes some minor stumbling and concentration issues. This is of some concern as Bob has had three concussions in one year that is probably causing the concentration issues. 

Bob and Ishwor Stop for the Mountain View and Some Reflection

The break for lunch is good but we are not really up for food and the real goal today is Base Camp. We don't stop long.

Nearing Gorak Shep

We are on the right path

Shortly out of Gorak Shep we come by the sign, "This way to Base Camp". We at least know we are on the right path but we trust to our guide Ishwor. 

Approaching the Khumbu Glacier

The walk is much harder, involving rocky dunes and moraine, formed by accumulated glacial debris. The path becomes less marked and we are now on a ridge with hundreds of feet drop on either side. We have to be careful of our footing and ensure we see where we are going. There is uncertainty at this point on my part. Can I walk over this high ground with my vertigo? 

On the way to Base Camp we face the Khumbu Glacier head on and at one point we must cross it and face towards the dangerous Khumbu icefall. Luckily we don't have to go to near the ice fall as it is beyond Base Camp. We can hear rock slides about us and individual rocks probably the size of small automobiles tumbling from the glacier. 

The Khumbu Glacier 

We must cross the glacier at this point and it is an ever-changing landscape with the melting ice, deep crevasses all about us. Ishwor tells us that this part of the trek changes every couple of weeks due to the melting ice below. We are a little insecure at this point but can now see our destination. 

Base Camp is ahead of us

We can see our friends Aaron and Isaac celebrating. Also the Aussi Couple are their along with a guy from Quebec we had met on the trail. Otherwise the site is clear and to ourselves to share with people we have shared the journey with. We are within steps of the site. Here only a few months’ previous 18 people died due to the avalanche caused by the earthquake. At this point I lose control of my emotions. It has been 8 days of hard trekking through severe up and down hills both literally and figuratively. We have crossed suspension bridges with raging rivers below us, dashed through areas of rock falls with other huge boulders waiting to tumble down and take us with them. We have experienced scenery, culture, and food like no other. But for me it is a lifelong dream come threw. Can I take those final steps? Bob and Ishwor hug me and assure me. I needed that assurance. I must go on; it is really only a few more steps across the moraine. Through the tears I carry on with Bob and Ishwor. We are greeted by our friends and handshakes and hugs abound. Everyone is taking turns for the photo opts. Here we are at 17,598 feet and as near to the top of the World I will ever be. No, I am on top of the World; emotionally. That is the feeling. Happy 65th birthday to me; with my wife Claudine’s blessing I undertook this adventure for my special birthday.

 

Two Happy Guys 

Aaron and Isaac 

Gary and Fee (The Aussie Couple) and their guides

Ishwor was there with us every step of the way. He deserved our thanks and this picture. Thank you Ishwor.

I think I am ready to do the "Happy Dance"! The glasses hide the tears of joy.

The Khumbu Ice fall from Kala Patthar

We take some amazing pictures of the Khumbu Icefall. We see the mountains around us in their majestic beauty.  The Base Camp site has been cleaned up after the spring deaths. 

The Japanese climbers tents near the Khumbu Ice fall.

We reflect on that for a moment and then look into the distance near the base of the ice fall and see the tents of the Japanese climber who is at another camp in preparation for his ascent. We hope he makes it and we will follow his progress.

Base Camp is now a clean sight. It has been totally cleaned up since the spring earthquake and avalanche that killed 18 people. What was once more a garbage dump is now a spiritual place to reflect on the tragedy that happened here and the lives lost. After about 20 minutes we leave Base Camp and cross the glacier once again and then onto the moraine for the trek back to Gorak Shep where we will spend the night at 18,192 feet, our highest sleeping height. On the way back we run into the young Aussi nurses and another couple we had met on the plane from Kathmandu. Congratulations and hugs abound but Bob and I are two tired guys. Bob is looking and feeling a little worse with the dizziness and Ishwor and I have to watch him closely in fear he will fall over either side of the ridge.

This One Missed Us 

In the next incident we hear a terrible roar. Ishwor knows what it is. Avalanche! We turn and see it tumbling down the side of the mountain like white clouds descending from the sky. It is a combination of rock and snow that would be instant death for anyone in its path. We can thank our lucky stars that it was not large enough to jump the valley that is between it and us. The 18 dead climbers at Everest were not so lucky in the spring when the earthquake induced avalanche jumped the valley and descended on Base Camp. This was a sobering moment of reflection about the incredible power of nature.

The Avalanche That Missed Us

The rest of the trek to Gorak Shep was uneventful but I was glad to get down off the high ridge onto firmer ground. At his point it had been a 9 hour day under grueling conditions and we could barely get one foot ahead of the other. It was a welcome site to see the tea house at Gorek Shep. I never waited for hot drinks but went straight to the bunk for a deserving rest. I was fast asleep in minutes. I awoke for dinner and went down to the dining room. Aaron was still in bed and Isaac said he was quite ill due to today's climb. He did come down for dinner that evening but wasn't looking well. Now was to get a good nights sleep for another big day. It would be an early rise for the climb up Kala Patthar for the sunrise view of Everest. 

I put in a terrible night. I woke quite often and felt I wasn't breathing. I would take great gasps to get air into my lungs. I wasn't sure what was happening but it felt as close to dying as I could think of. I was scared. After an emotional day I simply wanted to get back to my family safely. Ishwor woke me at 3:45 am to get dressed for the climb up Kala Patthar. 

Day 11- Gorekhep to Kala Patthar and Down to Pangboche

Leaving Gorek Shep Early Morning

Now it was decision time for me. The next phase was to get up at 3:45 am and climb again up to Kala Patthar for the sunrise view of Everest. It would be our best view. I did not think it wise for Bob to make this trek seeing his dizziness persisted during the Base Camp trek and this one started immediately and continuously with a steep climb. I wanted to go, but would not go if he decided to go. He knew this was important to me but I would not put him in jeopardy. A decision had to be made!

The Sun Is Rising Over the Mountains 

I am forever thankful he let me go and stayed behind in bed. I knew I was facing another challenge but if clear the view would be worth it. The real test is that we were to come back for breakfast after 3 hours of ascending and descending Kala Patthar and then descend all the way to Pheriche which is parallel to Dingboche that was three days walk on the way up.

Aaron and Isaac Take Time to Reflect at Kala Patthar 

This was the last push up Kala Patthar for the view. If I look tired it was because I was. The restless night didn't help. There wasn't much air to breath up here either. What looks like mist in the valley below is actually clouds. We are far above them.

The Last Push up Kala Patthar with Ishmar and Isaac Behind 

The mountain Gods were with us. I didn't need to say I had made the summit of Kala Patthar but I wanted the pictures. When Ishwor told me the views were the same a little over half way up we decided to stop there. It was well worth it. Aaron and Isaac had made the last push up Kala Patthar as had the Aussi Couple. Aaron and Isaac made the same decision as me whereas the Aussi Couple decided to summit. I was not disappointed with my decision when back in Namche the Aussi Couple confirmed the views were no better but the last part of the climb was extremely gruelling. 

Everest peeks behind Lhotse and Nuptse

A Closeup of the World's Tallest Mountain 

 EVEREST 

In Nepali SAGARMATHA 

Tibetan CHOMOLUNGMA



Ed and Ishwar on Kala Patthar With Everest In the Background 

We say goodbye to the high mountains 

After Ishwor and I got back we had breakfast and proceeded to go down the mountain. I was still only up to potato and egg but even this was getting hard to take. Bob had recovered after a better night’s sleep but there was a little stumbling until we got to lower elevations. That day we did better than expected and actually got further down than Pheriche.

We Can See Pheriche in the distant valley

This would bode well for my knees as I knew the worst part for me would be from here back to Namche with the multiple climbs up and down out of deep valleys. At this point I had decided to wear the knee braces but my knees were actually doing quite well. I think the multiple days of trekking had strengthened the muscles around the knee and thus they were giving me less trouble.

On the way down we were to go through the high pass once again where the stupors were for the Sherpa’s’ and the trekkers who had died. This point became a very special place for Bob.

Ishwar and Bob stringing prayer flags for Dave Knowles

I will try and tell the story as it was told to me. As a kid Bob had two grammar school friends. The twin brothers David and Douglas (Doug) Knowles were classmates of Bob's in Kirkham Grammar School. Both boys became avid climbers. David going onto greater climbs until he was to become the stunt double for Clint Eastwood for the climbing scenes in the movie, "The Eiger Sanction". He was to die near the end of filming of a rockslide incident. The days’ filming was over and David was, as many before him, in the wrong place at the wrong time. David is recognized in the credits for the movie. David's brother and partner never climbed again after the death of his brother.

A Salute to Dave Knowles

In Kathmandu Bob had decided to honor his friendship with David by putting out prayer flags. He hadn't decided where but Base Camp didn't seem to be the right place. On our decent passing through the stupas to the dead Sherpa’s, trekkers and climbers this seemed to be appropriate to Bob. We all agreed and Bob and Ishwor stretched the flags in a high place to catch the wind while I acted as photographer. Tears again flowed but each of us felt the peace that such a place brings and I believe Bob left a beautiful tribute to his friend David Knowles.

After we left the memorials site we made Pheriche by midday and decided it best to continue on to make the trip shorter the next day to Namche. The trip down was by a different route and took us through a valley rather than along the ridge going up from Dingboche.

We passed yaks along the route and passed through several mountain villages and yak paddocks before finally reaching Pangboche where we were to stay the night. Pangboche is a typical Sherpa village with farming and yak breeding the primary industry. We observed a farmer spreading yak dung to dry for fuel and discovered a unique way to dry them on a stone wall as we passed through Pangboche.

Spreading Yak Dung 

The day before was a good decision and we made it to Namche without incident. Once we got partway through the first day Bob had fully recovered from his dizziness and was skipping rocks and leading the charge in his usual manner. I was having trouble keeping up but don't think I was slowing him and Ishwor down. It had been a couple of hard days for me, especially with three hours up Kala Patthar before proceeding down from Gorek Shep. I was happy for Bob and glad to see him back to himself. 

Pimba Carrying our Gear Down

Meanwhile Pimba our porter with our load of gear was running on occasion and skipping downgrades that we could only pick our way down. Oh the joy of youth and the lungs of a Sherpa!

Tea House in Pangboche

Our Room 

Still Seeing Porters With Massive Loads 

On our way down we were to pass many more porters with huge loads on their backs. These guys were carrying 6 pieces of 4x4 eight feet long. These small stature men never ceased to maze us.

Day 12 - Pangboche to Namche 

Tengboche in the Distance

Tengboche Monastery 

Passing through Tengboche before proceeding onto Namche we were treated to a beautiful sunshine day. This time the monastery stood out much more than in the fog on the way up. We quite enjoyed an interlude of picture taking here before going on. 

Day 13 - Namche to Lukla 

Hillary Bridge in the Background

The final day of descent was uneventful other than the amazing scenery. It was a long day but we arrived back in Lukla by mid afternoon. Aaron and Isaac were there to meet us for our final night. Time now for a few beers and reminisce the past 12 days and the friendships gained. We said goodbye to the Aussi Couple in Namche. They were taking an additional day to come down.

Training for Everest Marathon 

Some people may consider us rather adventurous but how about this guy? He ran past us in training for the Everest Marathon. It starts at Base Camp and runs down to Namche Bazar. Any of my runner friends up for that one?

The Aussie Nurses

Now for another surprise! We were into our second beer when who should walk in but the Aussi nurses. They had gained a day on us descending in only two days. Their experienced guide was totally knackered. We had a great laugh as they explained they were in desperate need of a hot shower and to get their hair washed. 

Isaac Waiting for the Lukla Flight

It was a great final night but now to face the flight back from Lukla to Kathmandu at 5:00 am wake up. Fortunately the weather remained clear and a crazy taxi down the sloping runway we raised into the thin air rather than dropping into the canyon below. Thirty -five minutes later we landed in Kathmandu and our adventure was over.

Aaron anxious to continue his adventure in Nepal

A final few days in Kathmandu and we were off to an overnight to Delhi and on the next day to Heathrow and then to St. John's and family.

To say this adventure has changed me would be an understatement. Fulfilling a lifetime dream that one thought could never be done can't help but change you. You have a greater appreciation for what is around you, the gifts of family, children, grandchildren, and friends. At age 65 I never thought this was possible. I had to draw on inner strength I never knew I had and that is an awaking. The only question now is; "What is the next"?

Acknowledgements

1. To my wife Claudine and my family for allowing me to undertake this adventure, thank you. I couldn't do it without your support and your belief in me. 

2. Thank you to my friend Bob Hill for sharing this wonderful experience with me for my 65th birthday. It was made more special by being able to share this with a friend. We had some laughs, shared some tears and had a wonderful adventure. Thank you buddy. 

3. Thank you to  Himalayan Wonders, simply the best trekking company in the Himalayas. We will highly recommend your services to others. 

4. Thank you Ishwor. The best mountain guide in Nepal. You made our trip special. Your knowledge of the mountains, the weather and your kindness towards us will not be forgotten. You made our trip.

5. Thank you Pimba our porter. How you managed to continue to smile at the end of the day after carrying our gear up and down treacherous steps, mountain passes, suspension bridges we will never know. We loved to tease you about a girlfriend in every village. It was all in fun and we hope we didn't offend you in any way. Thank you for the prayer scarf. It will be cherished as a special reminder of our adventure.  

6. To our new friends: Isaac and Aaron, Gary and Fee (The Aussie Couple), the Aussie Girls; it was wonderful to share this adventure with you. We had many good conversations, laughs and even shared a tear or two. You are the best.

7. To the people of Nepal we can only say you are beautiful people. The greeting of "Namaste" will remain with us forever as will the prayer flags and prayer wheels. The porters are courageous people who are the lifeblood of survival in the mountains. From the peasant farmers to the shopkeepers in Kathmandu you are all wonderful spiritual people. Your resilience in the face of adversity in awe inspiring. 

About the Author

Ed Evelly is a retired 65 years old. Although he has rafted rivers in New Zealand, done tandem para shooting off the Remarkables, completed an Ironman, swam across San Francisco Bay in the. "Great Escape from Alcatraz; he doesn't consider himself an adventure tourist but rather a "tourist seeking adventure". He is member of the Mount Pearl Sports Hall of Fame in Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada as a builder in Swimming. An athlete in his own right Ed has competed in 4 World Championships of Triathlon, 3 World Championships of Swimming and completed his only Ironman Triathlon at age 49. He is currently the Chairman of the FINA Masters Technical Committee. FINA is the World Sports Governing Body for World Aquatics. He recently returned from overseeing the FINA World Masters Championships in Kazan, Russia. Base Camp Everest has been on this "bucket list" since early childhood. He has checked that one off!